🔗 Share this article

When compiling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect familiar high-end establishments. However, situated near the top among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I’m totally astonished,” states a proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest place earning such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary honour.